We had to skip on the buffet this morning - as our flight left at 8 am. We were very sad to leave this perfect breakfast - but hopefully we'll find another good included breakfast buffet on the trip :). We caught our flight and arrived in Iguazu by 10 am. After a $3pp shuttle, we arrived at our hotel. We had greatly lucked out the night before, after calling a few hotels and finding 0 vacancies, we called a rather new B&B, Secret Garden Iguazu. It only had 3 rooms, so of course it was full, but the owner, John, was incredibly nice - and said to just send an email and he would see what he could do. We got an email last night, saying we had a room at the Cabanas del Linedor - for $50 - fantastic. I can't say anything about Secret Garden Iguazu itself, but I can say John was a lifesaver!!!
The Cabanas del Linedor are nice - air conditioning is probably the most important thing to mention - as it is going to be 90 degrees today and very humid! We just dropped our stuff at the hotel, and immediately went off to the park. We were waiting for the $3 shuttle - but as we were waiting, a cab stopped by and picked us up for $5 (instead of the usual $13) - nice - no waiting. The entrance to the national park was $10pp. Once in, we were going to have the buffet at the Sheraton - the only hotel inside the park - but when we learned of the $40pp cost - we decided to grab a less expensive lunch near the park entrance.
Iguazu falls are the result of an earthquake 120 million years ago. There are a total of 275 waterfalls, and they lie on the borders of Argentinia and Brazil. The view of the falls from either side are spectacular - and we were excited for the 2 days ahead of touring them.
We started off walking through a dense forest - there were a few lizards, and the largest ant we have see so far (although I'm guessing the Amazon may hold stranger species :). We saw a cortise along the way, best likened to the racoon - but a long snout (there were many of these in the park - and some more aggressive then others for getting fed from tourists). After a few minutes of walking, we were at the 2nd train stop. We then took off onto the lower circuit to view the falls. Along the walk, we came across many smaller falls - as we walked over and around the falls on a raised metal platform walkway. We were also lucky enough to see a Toucan! They were a lot larger then we had expected - this guy was towards the top of the forest canopy - so we didn't have a perfect look at him - but it was just nice to spot him (we didn't see anymore the rest of the day - so we felt lucky!).
We made our way to the San Martin and Mbigua/Mendez falls, where the mist of from the falls provided a perfect soak to cool us off from the humidity (we were already drenched from our walk - so this helped out :). We continued down to the dock area, where we paid $15pp for a 12 minute boat ride under the falls! The boat took us very close to the San Martin falls - it can't take you actually under the falls, as it would tear us from the boat, but the splash from the falls were strong enough to force our eyes shut. We were drenched! After 2 turns under these falls, the boat made its way down the Devils Throat canyon, and into the 2/3 Musketeers falls. Here we actually went more directly under the falls, as the waters weren't like the raging ones in the San Martin - but once again strong enough to force our eyes shut. Fun!
After our falls ride, we took a 30 second boat ride to San Martin island. Here, we took a few short hiking trails and a lot of steps to a viewing point to see the San Martin and various falls - it was once again very misty from the falls which cooled us off from our hike.
After the trip to San Martin, we walked back and toured the Upper Circuit - which took us back to San Martin falls, and the other various falls nearby, but this time viewing from above. It was a beautiful view - to see the water falling off just a few feet in front of us to the river hundreds of feet below. Jaimie also spotted some parrots in a tree in front of the falls (they blended in very well with the green foliage!)
We headed back, and took a 15 minute train to the trail to Devil's Throat falls (the train is included with your entrance fee). Devil's throat is the largest attraction at Iguazu - it has a 300 degree waterfall! We walked for just a few minutes, and were at the top of Devil's throat. It was magnificent - a mist was all around us (hard to photograph!) - as the 300 degrees of river collided and crashed in front of us, pushing up a strong mist. The mist would come and go with the wind - so we were able to get a few pics here and there as well as get the lens filter wet here and there :). We were completely soaked again! We hung out here for about 30 minutes, literally soaking up the views :). We then made our way back to the train, and caught the last train back at 6pm.
We departed the falls and took a $1.5pp bus back into town. I had asked a person on the bus where they would recommend to eat - as it had now started to downpour, so we didn't want to walk the streets in the rain searching for restaurants in Puerto Iguazu. They recommended a restaurant just 1 block from the bus terminal. However, after the $15pp ride under the falls, I was out of Argentian cash, and this place didn't take Credit Card. Luckily, Jaimie found a restaurant that did, just across the street. We had a great Argentian meal - a $6 steak (again :) for me, and Jaimie one of the local fish. It was superb (and cheap!)!
We made our way back to the hotel by cab - and called it a night. We're off to Brazil tomorrow!
Wrapping up Argentina:
Food: We met an Argentinian woman on our Sacred valley trip in Peru - she wasn't eating the buffet and I asked her if she felt ok (was she sick). She said no - i only eat meat!!! She wouldn't eat the fish or chicken at the buffet or veges!! Ha. Obviously steak and meat is big in Argentina - and it's cheap!! Pizzerias were as popular in Argentina as they were in Chile (meaning on every corner) - but no complaints here!
Wine of Choice: Chandon's Clos de Moulin!! They had a great 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon with Pinot Noir (they have to list any grape varieties mixed in - so this might just be called a Cabernet Sauvignon in the states). The Pinot Noir softened the tanin bite of the Cabernet - making this a very smooth red!
Memories: Calling my name over the airport loud speaker, insanely expensive ultra modern sushi club, unlimited number of cats and kittens in the botanical gardens, dog poop on the sidewalks (its true), late late late dinners, cheap steaks, tangos, chanting fanclub at the futbol game, whistling for the other team, lizards and coatis at Iguazu, getting soaked under the falls and then going in a boat under the falls, walking 5 feet and sweating 5 lbs.
People: They did not at all live up to the fictional reputation of being snobby. They were super friendly and always trying to be helpful - a great crowd in general. Also, as far as a safety factor in Buenos Aires - it was great - probably the safest city so far.
Economy: Incredibly interesting - in from 1993 - 2002 - the Peso was pegged to the dollar. This was scrapped shortly after Argentina defaulted on $93 billion (US)! After that - devaluation and its brother inflation kicked in. Just 4 years ago it was 1 peso to 1 dollar and now its 3 pesos to the dollar! Inflation hasn't kept up completely, so prices are incredible cheap to foreigners. Unemployment peaked in 2001 to 18% and is now back down to 12%. Their major exports are edible oils, fuels and energy, and motor vehicles. Buenos Aires is a very modern city and has all of the types of business you would expect (banking, industrial, etc.).
Climate: Warm and slightly humid - but overall enjoyable (in other words - not too hot). The nights stayed warm and the days were in the 80s, cloudy or sunny. Iguazu was super humid - of course from the spray of the falls and the rain forest like terrain. It was in the upper 80's but felt like the hundreds!
Exchange Rate: 1 US dollar = 3.08 Argentinan Pesos
Recommendation to friends:
8 out of 10: Buenos Aires - it's a beautiful and laid back city. The people were ultra friendly, as were the prices. If you love to Tango/dance, this is the place to go! While we didn't see a show, Buenos Aires puts on many in a number of theatres around town (including the most popular Teatro Colon). A futbol match is not to be missed - but I'm sure all South American countries are into their futbol matches.
9 out of 10: Iguazu falls puts Niagra to shame. We walked by some "smaller" falls and only admired them for a minute, when we would normally hike hours to see such a sight. The fact is that the San Martin and Devil's Throat are incredibly overpowering, and I could sit in a chair with a beer admiring these falls for days!
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Day 44 - Buenos Aires < | Index | Photo Galleries | > Day 46 - Iguassu Falls
